Xuancheng, told straight.

The literary-and-craft heartland of southern Anhui, where the 'Xuan' in Xuan paper — the calligrapher's paper of the Four Treasures of the Study, and a UNESCO intangible-heritage craft — is actually made in Jing county, where Li Bai wrote his most famous quatrain on Mount Jingting, and where Zhaji is one of China's largest surviving ancient villages. How a foreigner reaches sights that are scattered across two rural counties and need a car, what's genuinely old versus reconstructed, and how to base yourself for it.

Field-verified · last checked 2026-06-13

The booking wall verified

These sell out or block foreigners if you arrive unprepared — the dates, the official link, and whether your passport works.

China Xuan Paper Cultural Park (中国宣纸文化园), Jing county

2026-06-13
Price
Foreigners
Passport works

A walk-up ticket in normal periods; bring your passport as ID. The park is in Wuxi/Jing county (泾县), built around the heritage workshops of the China Xuan Paper company, and is most easily reached by hired car or taxi from Xuancheng or Jing county town. Booking, where it exists, runs through the site's WeChat/Alipay mini-program and OTAs (Chinese-first); have your hotel help if needed. Don't assume an English window at the gate.

officialBookingUrl set to null: we could not verify a single clean official ticketing domain for the park, so we are not publishing one rather than risk a hijacked or dead link — sales appear to run through the operator's mini-program and OTAs. Prices left null and unverified; reconfirm at booking. This is the living home of Xuan paper (宣纸) — the soft, durable handmade paper that is the 'paper' among the Four Treasures of the Study, traditionally made in Jing county from the bark of the Pteroceltis tatarinowii tree and named after the old Xuan(zhou) prefecture. The craft of making Xuan paper was inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2009. The cultural park lets you walk through the multi-step process — steaming and bleaching bark, the famous large two-person 'lao' (the sheet-forming dip), pressing and wall-drying — and try a hands-on sheet. Note the geography: this is not in Xuancheng city, it's a county over.

Source: official ticketing · re-checked monthly

Zhaji Ancient Village (查济古村), Jing county

2026-06-13
Price
Foreigners
Passport works

A walk-up gate ticket; bring your passport. Zhaji is deep in Jing county (泾县), well beyond the Xuan Paper park, and realistically needs a hired car or taxi for the day — public transport is sparse and slow. No advance booking needed in normal periods; the village streets are lived-in, not a sealed ticket-park.

officialBookingUrl null — gate sale and OTAs only, no official ticketing site we could verify; left null rather than publish an unverified domain. Prices null and unverified; reconfirm at the gate. Zhaji (查济) is one of the largest surviving ancient villages in China — a sprawling, still-inhabited Ming-and-Qing settlement of old residential lanes, stone bridges, ancestral halls and memorial archways strung along a stream, far less polished and less crowded than the famous UNESCO Hui villages of Xidi and Hongcun nearer Huangshan. That's the trade: fewer facilities and rougher edges, but a more genuinely lived-in, un-museumed feel, and it's a long-time favourite of art students who come to sketch. Come for the atmosphere and the scale, not for a manicured old-town experience.

Source: official ticketing · re-checked monthly

Mount Jingting (敬亭山) — Li Bai heritage

2026-06-13
Price
Foreigners
Passport works

A walk-up gate ticket with your passport; no advance booking in normal periods. This is the one headline sight actually close to Xuancheng city (just north of Xuanzhou District), reachable by taxi or local bus, so it's the easy half-day if you're short on time.

officialBookingUrl null — gate sale and OTAs only, no clean official ticketing domain we could verify; left null. Prices null and unverified; reconfirm at the gate. Mount Jingting (敬亭山) is a modest, green, walkable hill rather than a dramatic peak — its fame is literary, not scenic. The Tang poet Li Bai climbed it repeatedly and immortalised it in his quatrain 'Sitting Alone on Jingting Mountain' (独坐敬亭山), and it became one of the most written-about hills in Chinese poetry, drawing centuries of literati after him. Manage expectations: you come for the poetry, the pavilions and the calm wooded paths, not for a big-mountain spectacle. It pairs naturally with a look at Xuancheng's own literary heritage as the historic home of the brush, ink, paper and inkstone scholar's tradition.

Source: official ticketing · re-checked monthly

Longchuan (龙川), Jixi county

2026-06-13
Price
Foreigners
Passport works

A walk-up gate ticket with your passport. Longchuan is in Jixi county (绩溪), south of Xuancheng toward the Huangshan side, and like the other sights is best reached by hired car or taxi for the day. No advance booking in normal periods.

officialBookingUrl null — gate sale and OTAs only, no official ticketing site we could verify; left null rather than risk an unverified link. Prices null and unverified; reconfirm at the gate. Longchuan (龙川) is a historic Hui-style ancestral village in Jixi county, the Hu clan's home ground, known above all for its richly carved wooden ancestral hall (the Hu Clan Ancestral Hall / 胡氏宗祠) and a stone memorial archway — fine examples of the brick, wood and stone carving that defines Huizhou architecture. It sits in the Hui cultural belt that spills over from neighbouring Huangshan, so if you've already seen Xidi and Hongcun, treat Longchuan as a quieter, less-touristed variation on the same Hui-village theme rather than a must-add.

Source: official ticketing · re-checked monthly

Landing & registration

The first-24-hours facts: hotels, police registration, and whether your card works.

Hotels take foreigners
Mixed — check first
Foreign card via Alipay/WeChat
mixed
Police registration
Xuancheng is a prefecture-level city in southern Anhui that sees very few independent foreign travellers, so foreign registration is genuinely hit-or-miss outside the bigger hotels. The most reliable base is a mid-range or chain hotel in the central Xuanzhou District (the city proper) near Xuancheng railway station, where police registration of a foreign passport is more routine. The catch is that the headline sights are not in the city: the Xuan Paper Cultural Park and Zhaji village are out in Jing county (泾县), an hour or more west, and Longchuan is in Jixi county (绩溪) to the south — so wherever you sleep, you'll be making day trips. Small county-town guesthouses and rural homestays near the villages are aimed at domestic tour groups and many aren't set up to register a foreign passport; confirm a property takes foreign passports before you pay. Carry your original passport — it's your ID for every gate ticket and for hotel check-in — and keep some cash on you, since mobile pay (a foreign card linked to Alipay or WeChat Pay) works in town but acceptance and signal get patchy out in the villages and on rural buses.

Eat like a local

What to order, where locals actually queue, and the food-street traps to skip.

Stinky mandarin fish — the southern-Anhui signaturechecked 2026-06-13

The dish to seek out across southern Anhui is chou guiyu (臭鳜鱼), 'stinky' mandarin fish: river fish lightly fermented until it smells pungent, then pan-fried so the flesh turns firm and faintly cheese-like, usually braised with a little pork and chilli. It's the defining plate of Hui (Huizhou) cuisine, and the smell is far stronger than the taste — most first-timers end up converts. This is local food, not a tourist invention, and a good version is worth ordering even if the name puts you off.

Hairy tofu and the Hui-cuisine braiseschecked 2026-06-13

Anhui's other oddity worth trying is mao doufu (毛豆腐), 'hairy tofu' — bean curd deliberately fermented until a downy white mould covers it, then pan-fried until golden and crisp-edged, eaten with chilli sauce. Around it sits the rest of Hui cooking: heavy on braising and stewing, mountain ingredients like bamboo shoots, dried vegetables, freshwater fish and cured ham, and a preference for deep, savoury, slow-cooked flavours over flash and spice. It's hearty country food built for a damp, hilly climate — order the braises and the local fish over anything generic.

Eat in the towns, and use a translation appchecked 2026-06-13

Out in Jing and Jixi counties the dining is solidly local and there's essentially no foreign-food scene or English menus — that's part of the appeal, but plan for it. Busy small restaurants in the county towns and around the villages will feed you well and cheaply; point at what looks good, lean on a translation app, and ask for the local fish or the day's braise. Prices inside the ticketed village areas run higher than in the ordinary town streets just outside, as everywhere.

The honest layer

The part a tourism board will never print.

The famous sights are scattered across two rural counties — you need a carchecked 2026-06-13

Don't picture Xuancheng as a compact city break. The name-brand attractions are spread out: the Xuan Paper Cultural Park and Zhaji village are both an hour or more west in Jing county (泾县), Longchuan is south in Jixi county (绩溪), and only Mount Jingting is actually beside the city. Rural buses between them are slow, infrequent and fiddly to chain together. The sane way to see this region is to hire a car or a taxi for a full day per county — budget for that, plan one county at a time, and accept that the driving, not the walking, is the trip.

Xuan paper is the real headline — and it's the calligrapher's paper, not 'rice paper'checked 2026-06-13

The single most distinctive thing about this corner of Anhui is that it's the home of Xuan paper (宣纸), the soft, fine, astonishingly durable handmade paper that is the 'paper' of the scholar's Four Treasures of the Study (brush, ink, paper, inkstone). It's made in Jing county from the bark of a local tree, by a multi-step process whose craft UNESCO inscribed as intangible cultural heritage in 2009. Most ancient Chinese paintings and calligraphy that survive do so because they were on this paper. If you have any interest in Chinese art, the Cultural Park demonstration of the giant two-person sheet-forming dip is the reason to come to Xuancheng at all — it's a genuine craft, not a gift-shop gimmick.

Zhaji is the un-touristy alternative to Xidi and Hongcunchecked 2026-06-13

Everyone funnels to the UNESCO Hui villages of Xidi and Hongcun near Huangshan. Zhaji (查济), out in Jing county, is one of the largest surviving ancient villages in China and is the opposite experience: bigger, rougher, still genuinely lived-in, far less commercialised, and quiet enough that you'll mostly share the lanes with art students sketching. The trade-off is real — fewer facilities, less English, no slick visitor centre — but if you want an old village that feels like a place people live rather than a ticketed set, Zhaji rewards the longer drive to reach it.

Jingting is poetry, not scenery — calibrate accordinglychecked 2026-06-13

Mount Jingting (敬亭山) is a gentle wooded hill, not a dramatic peak, and a first-time visitor expecting Huangshan-style cliffs will be underwhelmed. Its whole significance is literary: Li Bai climbed it and wrote his famous 'Sitting Alone on Jingting Mountain', and for a thousand years poets followed him there, making it one of the most-written-about hills in China. Go for the quiet paths, the pavilions and the sense of standing where the poem was written — it's a pleasant, easy half-day beside the city, valuable for the cultural resonance rather than the view.

Straight answers

Where is Xuan paper actually made, and can I see it being made?

Xuan paper (宣纸) is made in Jing county (泾县), which historically fell under the old Xuan prefecture — that's where the name comes from — not in Xuancheng city itself. The China Xuan Paper Cultural Park in Jing county is built around the heritage workshops and lets you walk through the craft, including the large two-person sheet-forming dip, and try a hands-on sheet. The papermaking craft was inscribed by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage in 2009. It's roughly an hour or more from the city; go by hired car or taxi, and bring your passport for entry.

How do I get around to the sights — is one base enough?

Plan on day trips by car. The headline attractions are spread across two rural counties: the Xuan Paper Cultural Park and Zhaji ancient village are both out in Jing county to the west, Longchuan is in Jixi county to the south, and only Mount Jingting is beside Xuancheng city. Rural buses are slow and don't chain together well, so the practical move is to base yourself in central Xuanzhou District (the city proper) and hire a car or taxi for a full day per county. One base works, but expect real driving each day.

Is Zhaji worth it over the famous Xidi and Hongcun villages?

It depends what you want. Xidi and Hongcun (near Huangshan) are the polished, UNESCO-listed, heavily visited Hui villages. Zhaji (查济) in Jing county is one of the largest surviving ancient villages in China and is far less commercialised — bigger, rougher, still lived-in, and quiet. If you've already done the famous two, or you specifically want an un-museumed village that feels real, Zhaji rewards the longer drive. If you want polish and facilities, it won't deliver that. Many travellers do Zhaji precisely because it isn't on the main circuit.

How do I reach Xuancheng, and do I need my passport everywhere?

Xuancheng sits in southern Anhui on the rail lines toward Huangshan, Hangzhou and Nanjing, so the easiest arrival is by high-speed or conventional train from those hubs to Xuancheng station, then a hired car for the county day trips. Carry your original passport: as across China, sights use real-name entry and a passport is your ID, and you'll need it for hotel check-in too. Stay in a mid-range or chain hotel in the central district for the most reliable foreign registration, and confirm any small county-town guesthouse takes foreign passports before you pay.

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These facts were field-verified on 2026-06-13. Rules change — if you saw different on the ground, help the next traveler.